East Africa
Uganda
The Pearl of Africa — mountain gorillas, tree-climbing lions and the source of the Nile, all wonderfully under-visited.
Uganda is the bargain of the gorilla world and so much more besides. A trek to the gorillas of Bwindi costs less than in Rwanda, and you can build a whole primate-and-savanna circuit around it — chimps in Kibale, lions in the trees at Queen Elizabeth, the thunder of Murchison Falls. It takes a little more effort to travel here, and that’s exactly why it stays quiet.
Field notes and lodge reviews for Uganda are below.
Main destinations
Bwindi Impenetrable
Roughly half the world's mountain gorillas live in this misted forest.
Explore →Queen Elizabeth NP
Tree-climbing lions, the Kazinga Channel and big game.
Explore →Kibale Forest
The best chimpanzee tracking in East Africa.
Explore →Murchison Falls
The Nile forced through a seven-metre gap — and big game on the banks.
Explore →Kidepo Valley
Remote, cinematic and almost empty — Uganda's wildest park.
Explore →
Field notes on Uganda
Field notes on Uganda are on the way — I'm writing them as I travel.