Rwanda

Rwanda has made gorilla tracking effortless and unforgettable — short transfers from Kigali, beautiful lodges, and an hour with a habituated family that rearranges something in you. The permit is expensive (around US $1,500), and worth every cent. Add Nyungwe’s chimps or Akagera’s restored savanna and you have a compact, conscience-clear trip you can do in under a week.

Field notes and lodge reviews for Rwanda are below.